Day 73 – 8 Sep, N Foot of Flenskampan to Ellefsplass Hut

(46 km, total 1968 km, 12h 35m, 0730 to 2005)

When I woke up it looked like a cold overcast day. I was ready quickly and started walking throught the forest gently climbing.

As soon as I cleared the trees I noticed something was missing – the big mountain I was about to climb. It had disappeared into the mist and as I climbed higher the mist got thicker.

There should be a mountain looming in front of me but it is covered by the mist

This morning was a 320 vertical meter climb. It started gently with the first 100 vertical meters spread over the first 3 km which let me warm up. Then it was 250 vertical meters over 1.5 km so a bit of a climb. Thankfully I had the very valid excuse of having to stop to find the next marker to explain my frequent stops, nothing to do with the fact that it felt like I only had a tiny fraction of my lung capacity as the rest was clogged up, despite the amount of phlegm I coughed up to fertilise the pretty alpine vegetation. No one said this thru hiking gig was a glamorous one. Thankfully hiking solo I did not have to consider other peoples sensitivity, or worry about accidentally sharing part of my lungs as I cleared my nose.

Despite this I was actually enjoying the climb through the mist. I have mentioned before how the occasional thick mist is fun, changing my perspective from the seeming infinite landscapes of Norway to the micro world of drops of water glistening on the blueberries. They seemed to taste even better this way.

The markers were either lacking the red paint or the paint was faded making it a bit more of a challenge to find the intentional piles of stone amongst the natural piles of stone.

Nearer the top the next markers were not visible so I had to walk in the general direction I thought they would be. If I saw nothing before the last marker disappeared into the mist I would backtrack and try again in a different direction.

I was in a good flow when I noticed I was now going down hill. After taking a moment to enjoy the view of white fog I continued down the hill.
It was steep for less than a km and then the gradient was perfect for striding out without worrying about slipping and falling on my behind. The only trouble with this is it was quite rocky so I still needed to be careful of my footing. However it was not swampy so I was not complaining. Also the red paint was fresher now and easier to see. There was even a defined track on the ground to follow.

I quickly dropped out of the mist and could now see the lakes in two directions. The mist thickened just as I reached the first intersection which took off in a different direction than I was expecting so there was a slight course direction as I found the markers and followed the trail around some lakes.

The track was largely non existent from the intersection. The trail seemed to be going a different route through the lakes but this was probably just my limited visibility changing my perspective.

There was a small swampy area just before the next intersection. Now there was a small climb up a perfectly defined track through the pale green moss. I love this moss as I have already said, though technically it is lichen not moss. It looks like miniature forests.

Once up the climb it was walking along the side of the hill and a final little climb before starting to drop. The track came and went with most of the time no track just following the markers. The vegetation was a bit taller and walking started to be a little harder. At times it felt like I was walking on soft snow that gave way under my weight, even reduced as it is now.

The trail started dropping into the trees and there was meant to be an intersection but the trail in the direction I wanted was not marked. I turned right and was able to follow the old trail until getting into a swampy area then I lost it.

Going through the trees I saw my first deer. It was quite small and a pale brown colour. The movement was very different from a reindeer.

To start I thought I would be able to avoid the worst of the swamp but going to the north of Stormyrfjenna Lake it was pure and deep swamp.

I was relieved to reach the end of the swamp as it was really tiring slogging through it. Now it was onto a path of mature forest.

I was planning to go to Saeter Hut for lunch but it was already 1400 hours, the last 2 km having taken a while. I found a nice mossy seat and had lunch while letting my legs recover and sheltering from the cold wind.

After lunch I was expecting a river crossing but on reaching the river I saw it was a deep slow river running past farmland.

I was not keen on a swim in the cold, especially in a river next to farms, so I had to examine my map for the nearest bridge which was 2 ½ km away meaning a 5km detour – yay. Thankfully after a short bush bash here was a nice track beside the river and then gravel road to the bridge and sealed road heading back north.

I turned off the main road onto a small gravel road which climbed slightly, going past some really old looking farm buildings. Just short of a more modern farm was the red T marker and the trail up into the mountains again.

The trail climbed on a rocky path through pine trees, across a few swamps and up into the open. My left knee was twinging a bit on the climb.

It was a relatively gentle climb and then I could look 3km across the lake strewn valley to the hill I would climb over the base of.

Just as I was starting the climb it started raining. Most of the time it was a medium rain but there were several bursts of heavy rain. For once I did not have a head wind and was quite enjoying having the rain behind and to the side of me. Unfortunately I could feel the rain coming through onto my stomach and upper arms. Norway had now started to get the better of my rain jacket.

It was now a wet plod over the hill, down to a private hut and up over another hill before starting quite a descent on a rocky path that dropped into the trees and became a wet and slippery descent down the stream/track.

Very very brief moment of respite from the rain on the descent

I was starting too get a little cold with a wet stomach and was grateful for the shelter of the trees.

Once down the steep bit I was on a track that never seemed to end. It was only meant to be one km but it felt a lot more as the track was rocky and twisty and I was at the end of a long, physically demanding day, and was feeling very wet.

Finally the track hit the road and I followed this for 3.5 km to the DNT Hut that was right on the road. I was expecting the normal type hut but it was a big house, with electricity.

I also thought there would be other people there given it was a Saturday night but I had the house to myself.

I turned on the heaters in the bedrooms but did not bother with a fire. I was pretty cold by now so quickly stripped off my wet shorts. My top had wet patches on the upper arms and the bottom third was also wet. I was surprised that the rest was dry as I had thought I was completely saturated.
I warmed up quickly and set all my gear to dry and had dinner. I enjoyed the luxury of electricity and was able to top off my power banks and phone.

It was 2000 hrs by the time I reached the hut and by the time I had sorted my gear and had dinner I was ready for bed.

I was a little surprised at the distance I did today considering there was very little road and much of the trail was rough with a lot of climbing. After a 46km day I deserved a good rest.

Visits: 295