Day 30 – 21 Apr 19. Summiting Mt Baden Powell and the Snow Slog

Today 26.1 km (16.2 mi), Total Distance 630.9 km (392 mi). 11 hours 20 minutes (0640-1930, less 1.5 hours with the trail angels)

I heard my alarm go off but didn’t want to get up. I could see the bright orange of the sunrise under my tent flap so I looked outside and was greeted to a beautiful sunrise. Now motivated I got ready.

Just before heading outside to go to the toilet I heard voices and a group of 3 guys were sitting on a log above my tent talking. I headed down the hill and there were more people coming up the trail. I was getting desperate by now so just moved behind a tree as they went past. I have trained my bladder that it has to wait until I have had breakfast, packed up my sleeping bag and mattress, and put my shoes on before going to the toilet. This way I don’t have to get in and out of the tent on cold mornings. However depending on how much I drink the night before it can be a tight line to finish everything in time.

The others who camped at the same spot were all still in their tents when I left.

The trail did not follow the switchback route as this was completely buried in snow. Instead it went directly up the hill, finally a direct climb. Technically that means I am no longer pure in my hike but as there was no trail to follow I am still considering my hike pure. I made good progress up the hill. The snow was ice and hard and my crampons were gripping nicely.

Near the top I caught up to a British couple, the ones who nearly had the view of my morning pee this morning.

I stopped to take some photos and they continued on and I caught them again just before the summit.

The views were amazing. There was cloud in the valleys below. I love being above the clouds, makes me feel like I am the only one around, though in this case there were 5 others there too. I took some videos at the stake which marks the high point at 2860 meters (9460 ft) and then went down to the scout monument to have a look.

There was a register to sign but it was frozen shut. The others had left by now so I made the most of my solitude at the top of the mountain before heading down.

I had heard that the descent was really bad but it was no worse than what I had already done. In some ways it was better because the snow was still hard.

The trail followed a ridge then climbed the next mountain, Mt Burnham and then Throop Peak. The trail is meant to go around these but all the tracks went up and over them. The trail did go around Mt Hawkins, probably because it was changing direction.

Now there was a steep drop through rocks so I took my crampons off.

I had a break at the junction on a perfectly sized log. For some reason I thought that was it for the snow but the trail alternated between dirt and snow for the big descent, some sections required a lot of care as it was slippery, both snow and dirt. The trail then went around a hill and it was solid snow again so I put my crampons back on. It took a bit of concentration as it was steep terrain but there was nothing too challenging.

At Windy Pass it seemed clear of snow so I took my crampons off but carried them in case it was only a short section again. It was only 0.3 miles to Little Jimmy Campground and I made it there okay, less one tentative crossing of a steep snow patch.

The guys I had passed, and been passed by were there. It was an guy from Israel who I met at McDonalds, a Spanish guy, an American and then a little later the British couple and an aussie guy. I had lunch while talking to the guys. They had all decided to stay at the campgground but I decided to push on as it was only just after 1100.

From Little Jimmy Campground the trail was very difficult and I was the first one over it that day. There were only a couple of other footprints in some places, and in others they disappeared. Once again there was a road that most people seemed to take but I was still being stubborn and trying to take the trail.

Marks from edging

At one point I saw two day walkers heading up to the road. They said it was getting too hard and I agreed they should not continue on the trail. The good thing for me is now I had fresh foootprints to follow and started making quicker time. I came across two more groups of dayhikers, surprisingly this now being one of the busiest trails.

The trail was slowly descending, alternating between dirt sections and snow patches.. The snow seemed to be in the steepest places and some of the crossings were ones where it is not wise to look down.

Near the end I could see the road below and two hikers on the road. I still had a bit more snow to cross but finally came out at the Islip Saddle carpark, only just after the two hikers did.

There was a Swiss Couple, the couple I saw who were Water and Jorge. I had met them on Day 23. I had a snack and caught up on what they had been doing before continuing.

It was a big climb to less than 200 meters from the summit of Mt William before dropping down the other side. The climb was fine, not too steep but there were a couple of challenging snow patches to cross. They were very steep and the footprints were not well defined. The snow was also soft and giving way a little.

The descent was very tiring. It required full concentration as it was narrow trails on a steep hill with several snow patches to negotiate. Some of them the footprints went too high and I then had to scramble down the loose gravel hillsides to get back to the track.

When I thought the snow was done then it was fallen trees to have to clamber over. Definitely one of the most physically and tiring downhills I have done on this trail.

The trail emerged onto a road which I crossed and continued on the other side for a mile before descending to Devils Roost Picnic Area.

There was a lady in a small car sitting there and she asked me if I had seen her son and girlfriend. They were meant to meet at 1500 and he was crossing Islip Saddle earlier in the day. I told her I had not seen anyone matching his description. I felt sorry for her, there was no reception so she could not get an update from him, and he should have been through there already.

Now was the first trail closure. The next section of trail is closed due to the endangered Yellow Legged Frogs so we had to do a detour. This was to walk down the road for 2.7 miles then go through Buckland Campground and take the Buckhorn Trail to then meet back with the PCT.

I was just settling into the road walk when I came around a corner and saw a green Ute (pickup truck) and heard voices. I came around the Ute and there were Water and Jorge. I was a little confused how they got in front of me then realised they must have walked the road rather than the trail I took.

They had been pulled over by three Trail Angels an hour and a half ago. The guys offered me a Pepsi and banana which were both amazing. They were trail runners who were running sections of the PCT and they also did a lot of Trail Angeling. They were a neat bunch of guys and the conversation was hilarious.

They told me how they encountered Water and Jorge. They drove up to them and said “Do you want a Pepsi”. Water thought they wanted one and replied “Sorry I don’t have Pepsi but you can have some of my water”. Firstly that explains what sort of person she is. She is willing to give strangers the water she had filtered and been carrying, on a dry section of trail. Secondly it is hilarious and I suggested her trail name should be Water which she accepted.

The poor lady drove back and forward several times, pulling over to talk to us for help. Unfortunately there was nothing we could do but give her options where they may be.

After more conversation Ken casually said we should have some cake. We agreed and he produced a box with a beautifully decorated birthday cake. I felt really bad and was reluctant to eat this but they insisted and we all ate the cake. It was delicious, a nice moist sponge with cream and strawberries. I had two large pieces, Jorge had 3.

Finally we continued on. I had been there 1.5 hours and they had been there 3 hours.

We walked down the road together, all on a sugar high. We saw a sign saying 1 mile to Buckhorn Campground and did not check the maps. We were meant to turn there but continued one mile and turned there. A little extra distance but we did not care with our great Trail Angel experience and sugar high.

We filtered some water from the stream and found a campsite. We were at the campground which normally charges a fee but they were still closed so no fee.

I had a small dinner and crashed.

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