Day 70 – 31 May 19. Set Up for Silver Pass

Today 21.9 km (13.6 mi), Total Distance 1422.0 km (883.6 mi). 7 hours 20 minutes (0750-1510)

For some reason I was not warm last night. It was a much warmer night than usual but I was really snuggling into my bag and had it over my head to stay warm.

I had a lay in as I only had a short day today. Today I just wanted to get close to Silver Pass so I could do it early in the morning with hard snow.

I was on my way just before 8. The trail continued to be mainly snow, following the footprints. The footprints were still in good condition.

Slowly more track emerged from the snow as I continued dropping elevation. Unfortunately the mix of snow and dirt makes for difficult travel and I dropped unexpectedly and strained my left upper, outer hamstring. It wasn’t sore but I could feel it for a long time. My right knee was also twinging occasionally.

After passing the Bear Creek Trail Head Junction I started climbing again and strangely the snow disappeared and I had dirt track for the start of the climb until nearly 2900 meters when it went to pure snow.

There were lovely footprints and I followed them the rest of the way up the steep bit and then for the gradual climb along the side of the hill. They were a nice distance apart and I could relax a little while walking.

From the top of the hill was a steep descent. I continued to follow the tracks and then descended normally then dropped into a large clear path down the mountain. It was really steep but I was able to descent quickly in the fresh snow. It was only where the clear snow was cluttered with the previous peoples footprints that I found it a little slippery, sliding a couple of times for a meter or two.

At the base of this long chute, which was actually a stream, the way became more cluttered. The snow was thinner and there were rocks and deadfall under the snow. I potholed down a deep hole and thought I had twisted my knee but thankfully it was ok. I stuck to the clear patches of trees when I could, thought they were thick and sometimes difficult to move through. I was not enjoying this bit as the risk of postholing was very high.

I was relieved when I dropped into a area of rocks which was clear of snow. Now I was able to descend down the rocks down to the trail.

It was wonderful to be on the trail which was snow free. I followed it the short way to the bridge over Mono Creek. I find the naming of waterways strange. In New Zealand a creek is a small waterway with little flow. A stream is bigger and flows faster and a river is big. Here the Creeks are bigger than the streams. This “Creek” was a full on raging river that I am very glad I did not have to cross.

After the bridge was the junction where normally most PCTer turn and head to Vermillian Valley Resort (VVR). This is 1.5 miles to the lake and then they catch the ferry across to the resort. Unfortunately the resort is still closed, hence the long section and large amount of food to get me to Mammoth Lakes.

I continued on the trail which was now heading uphill. It started by the river then turned away and headed up a different valley by North Fork Creek. There were several streams to cross. For the deeper ones I take off my gaiters so I do not have wet gaiters.

At one as I was putting my gaiters back on it started snowing big fluffy flakes which then turned into rain. I put my wet weather gear on and my umbrella up. I had just been contemplating having lunch when the snow and rain started so decided to skip lunch, knowing I was having a short day.

The trail started to get steeper and rocky. There were lots of stairs that must have taken the trail maintenance team a long time to build. The steps had been turned into a water feature as water streamed down them from the melting snow. I was feeling good going up them. My two niggles were quiet and I had good energy. The rain stopped and I stripped down again as I was getting hot.

Once the stairs were down it was back to a mix of snow and dirt trail and then back into full snow. The footprints were still there thankfully.

After following the North Fork Creek for a while I crossed over. There were several options to cross and I chose to go into the creek, rather than trying to jump across on the slippery rocks or slippery trees.

Now it was a steep section climbing. The trail reappeared and alternated between dirt and thick snow. I ended up scrambling up rocks rather than attempting the steep sections of snow. My rock climbing skills were coming into play in a few parts.

The trail passed under a massive waterfall which was pretty neat. I was very careful on the snow bridge under the waterfall but it held. There were more steep sections of snow and some more rock climbing before a really steep snow slope that got my adrenalin going. After that one I tried to stick to the rocks and bridge across between rock outcrops.

Finally this part was over and I was back on more level terrain. I am sure that section is pretty easy if you can zig zag up the track but it was not easy with the conditions I had.

Now it was heading along just above a creek and then through some pine trees across a flatter bit. The footprints I had been following changed to Snow Shoes and I was sinking into the snow occasionally, unlike with the nice footprints.

I followed the tracks as they started up the hill. Then it started snowing, lightly at first but then heavier and I lost sight of the mountains above me. I had planned to camp around here to have an early morning hard snow climb of the pass but I had been considering just going over now as the snow wasn’t too bad in the snow shoe tracks. However the snow showed no signs of stopping so I found a spot for my tent sheltered a little by some trees.

I stamped out an area for my tent and used my plastic dinner plate to redistribute the snow to ensure I had a flat spot on the sloped site. I got my tent up quickly and threw everything inside before shaking myself off and jumping into my tent.

It wasn’t cold but I still enjoyed getting rugged up with my possum down hat, goose down jacket an into my sleeping bag.

There had been no water sources close by so I melted snow enough for dinner, a hot chocolate and for breakfast which became my hot waterbottle. I had an early dinner and relaxed for the evening, planning the next two days.

I was checking the exit points to Mammoth and realised I had forgotten to see if the Red Meadow Resort was open. Thankfully it was a reasonable hour in New Zealand and I sent Mum a message on my satellite phone to check. The resort is still closed so that means I take the first exit point which will be a 3.5 mile trail to the road where possible there may be some tourists, but unlikely. It is another 3-4 miles to the town from there. If I took the Red Meadows Exit there would be no cars and I think it is at least 10 miles to Mammoth.

This means I have 3 less miles to walk. I am only 19 miles away from the turnoff so should get there on Sunday.

I think it is going to be a shock to see people. I have now been 6 days without seeing a single person.

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