Day 79 – 09 Jun 19. Many Steep Hills and Bensen Pass

Today 29.0 km (18.0 mi), Total Distance 1563.3 km (971.4 mi) 11 hours 5 minutes (0720-1825)

The temperature stayed above freezing and it was 5 degrees when I woke up. My tent was dry with no dew, mist or condensation. As I was laying there getting the willpower to get up I noticed some damage to my tent so I spent a while doing some patches. The poor tent is on its last legs. I tried to order a replacement but the two types I was interested in were unavailable. Hopefully in the next town they will be available as I am not sure how much longer this tent will last.

It was the day I woke up to -5 degrees C and it was covered in snow and Ice that started the damage, though it is an old tent and has done a lot of miles. It is up to nearly 7,000 km of hiking so I am not complaining.

I put my crampons on as the snow was nice and hard and it was pure snow walking.

I continued climbing up the side of the hill, picking my way over and around the snow mounds in amongst the pine trees.

Once I was at the right height it was just staying level on the side of the hill, then between two hills before starting the first steep drop of the day.

I was feeling ok. I had energy back in my legs and nothing was hurting.

The steep drop was ridiculously steep, I think it was the steepest so far. I took my time and finally made it to the bottom.

Now I was faced with an uncrossable river. I had veered off track coming down and now made my way upstream trying to find a crossing point that wouldn’t result in me dying.

I found where the track crosses the river and it was doable. There were actually two rivers to crooss. McCabe Creek and Return Creek. The first one was the most challenging but the height never came over my knees and I took my time to ensure I was always stable in the fast flow. It was cold.

The next creek was not as fast but was deeper and actually came over the crutch of my shorts, and it was cold.

Happy to be across the rivers I continued on. There were occasional sightings of the trail but I largely ignored it and just walked in the general direction I needed to go.

It was only a sort walk down parallel to the river and then I turned right up another valley. As the trail turned up the valley and started climbing it was briefly free of snow but once in the valley the snow was back.

It was only half a mile up this valley before climbing a super steep hill, 250 vertical meters in less than 700 meters. I put my crampons back on as I needed all the traction I could get. Needless to say there was a bit of resting on the way up.

There was a short slightly steep bit then it flattened out a bit and I followed the valley to Miller Lake, which actually had some water showing. It was a beautiful turquoise colour.

Now I headed beside the hill and then between some neat rock outcrops before starting the next big descent of the day. It was not quite as bad as the first one but was still super steep and tricky.

Unfortunately now the snow had softened up and I was at the in-between point of crampons or not. Some of the snow was still hard and shoes would have had no grip but the snow was soft in some places and was balling under my crampons, making things slippery until I cleared the snow balls.

It took a long time but finally I was down in the valley. The river was running fast but most of it was mid shin and it was only the final bit that got to just above my knee.

I was pretty tired so I found a place in the sun and stopped for lunch, and to air my feet out. I also had to clear the little stones out that always find a way into my shoes when crossing fast rivers.

Now it was back to snow heading down the valley for a mile before turning up a valley to the right.

Just before the turn the track climbed the hill. I did not see it start the climb so I headed straight up the hill until I found the track.

Now the track was largely clear of snow, except at the corners of the zig zags. It was a steep climb but much more pleasant with stairs and a nice path to follow. One up the main part of the climb the trail headed up the valley and like last time as soon as it turned up the valley the snow was back.

It was one and a half miles up this valley, crossing the river twice. The first time was on a snow bridge but the second time was wet feet. It was only knee deep and not as fast as the others I had crossed today.

Then it was back to clambering over the snow mounds between the trees, with a couple of open bits which had big suncups to negotiate.

I then turned left and it was another very steep climb, though thankfully not as long as the last one. From the top of the steep part there was a wide open valley and I continued climbing.

I came around a corner into a narrow gulley which then led to the final approach to Bensen Pass (10,108ft).

The climb was not technical but was a slog. I was happy to have made it as I was not sure I would make it today.

Now it was downhill all the way to the valley floor below. It was not as steep as the other climbs today which I was very happy about.

From the valley floor I turned right and continued down the main valley, crossing the river at a snow bridge. At the end of the Valley was Smedburg Lake which also had some water at the very edges.

Past the lake was a short walk and then the final steep drop of the day. It dropped down to a river, which I crossed on a snowbank, and then continued down slightly steeply. After a while the trail appeared and I was able to follow it with more trail than snow.

I was now looking for a campsite in the steep terrain and after a lot more dropping I finally found one. I was tired after todays effort. So many steep ups and downs.

I had my favourite dinner which is Freeze dry Pad Thai.

I managed further today than I expected and there is a chance I may make Sonora Pass in three days.

There was a beautiful sunset, the first I have seen in a long time.

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