Day 80 – 10 Jun 19. The Day of Difficult River Crossings and Seavey Pass

Today 23.2 km (14.4 mi), Total Distance 1586.5 km (985.8 mi) 11 hours 40 minutes (0705-1845)

It was pleasantly warm when I woke up and I was surprised it was only 5 degrees C. I was ready quickly and on my way.

I continued dropping down the hill. There was a river crossing early and luckily there was a log across the river. I started to cross standing up and I lost my nerve. I berated myself about getting across as I had done several crossings on logs with no issues. I have good balance and I knew I just needed to look ahead and walk. I think part of the problem was the protrusions on the log and the very first one had caused the trunk to be on a strange angle. Regardless I chickened out and got down on my hands and knees and crawled across. My hands were shaking from adrenalin.

The trail started an even mix with snow and dirt but at the steeper part it was pure dirt and it was nice being able to zig zag down the steep hill on a wide track, rather than skidding straight down snow like normal.

I managed to get a view of Benson Lake and it was actual water, the whole think. This was a novelty and I don’t think I have seen a lake for several weeks.

At the bottom I had to cross back over the creek and once again I found a nice log to do this but once again my confidence failed me. This was weird as I normally don’t have trouble with log crossings. So I got down on my hands and knees and crawled across. Not pretty but it did the trick. I was shaking afterwards with adrenalin.

Now there was a walk across a flattish swampy bit and on to the next river, Plute Creek. This one was in two stages. The first stage was too deep at the trail crossing but I went upstream and found a shallower and slower flow section, though it was still crutch level. I had taken my shorts off and carried my pack on my head.

The second part was also way too deep and fast but just downstream was a pileup of logs and I was able to cross on one of the logs.

Now it was across a swampy area and the start of the first climb of the day. The trail was clear of snow and I enjoyed getting into a good rhythm and chugging up the hill. It is amazing how quickly I was going with no snow. It was approximately 1,400 feet climb.

There was a mile up the valley then the trail turned right away from the creek and up a steeper bit to a small lake. The there was another steeper bit which I though was to the pass but no, I had to drop down and then climb again and now I was at Seavey Pass, 2,783 m (9,131 feet).

From the pass it was a drop down to Kerrick Canyon. The first part was ok and then the last part was steep. At the river there was no trail and the slopes were really steep, with a drop straight to the raging river if I fell.

I was not comfortable so I put on my crampons and got out my ice axe for the first time in ages. I took my time kicking steps and ensuring my ice axe was embedded fully before moving each time.

It was slow and tedious work with the strain of making sure I did not slip. This was the longest section of such steep traversing, nearly half a mile.

Finally it started easing off slightly, though was still steep by most peoples standards. I noticed it looked less steep higher up so I climbed up and found an easier place to walk. I stayed high for a while until I noticed it looked flat down by the river and I dropped down.

The flat was less than 30 meters and then I had to climb all the way back up again. I stayed high for a while longer then the valley opened up and I was able to drop to the river again.
There was an open area clear of trees and I stopped in a small patch of dirt with some rocks in the sun and had lunch.
Now it was a bit quicker travel in the snow. I was ignoring the track as it only appeared for a few meters every half mile or so. Sometimes I had to go high again to avoid steep bits and sometimes I was lower.

After what seemed like a really long time I got close to where I would have to cross the river. The river was running really fast and I had been worrying the whole time in the valley about how I was going to get across. I started searching earlier than the trail crossing and found a possible site. Just as I was videoing it I noticed a little further downstream there was a log so I went to investigate. It was doable and I was very relieved to have got across this river.

Now it was another big climb, thankfully with a mainly snow free track. This took me to a saddle and then I went down the other side.

The descent was much longer and once again very steep. The snow had softened nicely by now and it made it much easier being able to go down the slopes digging my heels in.

The main issue was nearer the bottom there were so many holes in the snow around the rocks and fallen trees. It was a constant worry that I would posthole down a deep hole so I kept my speed easy.

I had to cross a creek fairly high up and there was a snow bridge for the first part and the second part had rocks to step on that I realised was actually the trail. It was under water for the main part next to a waterfall.

Down the bottom I had to cross the river and I went to where the trail was marked but the river was way to deep and fast for me. I decided to head upstream and cross the creek that feed into the river just above the crossing point. I backtracked and found a partly submerged log which worked for these crossing. This time I had no trouble standing up, despite the water going over the log for part of it.

I looked at the main river and it was still too fast and deep for my comfort. I continued upstream and found a much wider part, though it was still deep. To prepare for the crossing I put my satellite phone around my neck, emptied out my hip pockets into my pack, took off my top and shorts. My top went into my pack and my shorts in the front mesh where I put them last time. I put my phone and wallet into my bra.

I entered the water and it quickly got deeper than I had estimated. I was up to my upper thighs but I was fine with the current. Then somehow I tripped and my poles were at the wrong angle to steady me and I was floating. I swam hard for the bank and nearly made it when the side stream increased the current and I started heading down the river. I swam hard for the trees and just managed to get a hold of a tree and get my feet under me. I only drifted down the river about 5 meters but it was a bit of a fright that I had lost footing. I had chosen a part where there was quite a while of calm water so I knew even if I ended up floating I would have time to swim for the far bank before getting into rougher water.

I put my clothes back on. My top was dry but my shorts got wet. My phone and wallet were also wet. I would see later if my pack stayed waterproof.

I continued on a few hundred meters down the valley in the snow looking for where the track headed up the hill. I did not see it due to snow but once I climbed a little way up I could see the track.

Now was the next big climb. The trail was an even mix of dirt and snow and the snow was really thin. I was postholing frequently and getting really annoyed. There was nothing visible in the snow to show if it would hold or if I would drop through.

Luckily the views were nice and I tried to regather myself after getting frustrated.

After the initial climb the trail then followed along the side of the hill before the final steep bit up to the pass.

Now once again it was another steep descent but this one seeped easier than the others and I was quickly down to the river and had to do another river crossing. Again this river was running very deep so I had to go searching to find a crossing point.

The one I found started deep but with almost no current and then there was a large rock slab to step up onto just as the current got faster. I did the full river preparation again and crossed. The first part was to my upper thighs but up on the rock it was knee height and I was able to handle the faster current at this height. Up on the bank I got dressed and was on my way.

It had been a long day and I was now just searching for a place in the sun t put up my tent. 10 minutes later I found it and after 11 hours and 40 minutes I was done for the day.

I unpacked my pack not sure if it would be soaked and I was pleased that only my camp shoes at the very bottom were wet. Everything else was dry.

Apparently the last few days of really high temperatures have caused massive snow melt and consequently really high runoff which explains the really high rivers.

I settled into my night routine, glad to be done after a frustrating and stressful day.

Visits: 470