11-13 March 2015
Dunedin, New Zealand to Nairobi, Kenya.
Total travel time 47 hours Home to Nairobi Guesthouse. Parents to Airport 1 hour, Dunedin Airport to Christchurch Airport, overnight at Jailhouse Backpackers 11h Christchurch Airport to Sydney Airport 3 h 22 m, transit 2 hours, Sydney Airport to Johannesburg Airport 14 h, transit 9 hours, Johannesburg Airport to Nairobi Airport 4 h 20, Nairobi Airport to Khweza Guesthouse 1 h 20 m. The Khweza Guesthouse was nice. It was clean and the staff were friendly.
I woke at 0630 and switched on the hot water and packed some things while the water heated up then showered. I had ordered breakfast for 0700 but at 0715 it still hadn’t arrived so I got one of the porters to chase it up while I finished packing.
14 March 2015
Day 1 – Nairobi (1600m) to Giant Bamboo Camp (2645m) which is on the Burguret Route up Mt Kenya. 1045 m gain.walking time 1250- 1445 (1 hour 55 minutes)
At 0730 breakfast arrived and it was great. Fried eggs (african eggs have very pale yolk) and sausages on wheat toast with a huge bowl of fruit salad, fresh passion fruit juice and hot milk enought for 2 hot chocolates. I then finished packing and checked out. My suitcase went into storage.
Jeramia from Go To Mt Kenya arrived as I was finishing checkout. He would escort me to Gathiuru where I would meet my guide. Alex my driver from the airport was driving again. It was a 3 hour drive on good roads to Gathiuru. There I met my guide, Zachary, cook, Dave, and porter, Basta. It was then another hour driving thus time on rough dirt and sand roads through farmland then forest which was farmed between the trees.
At the end of the road I said goodbye to Alex. While the car was unloaded David prepared lunch for me which was set out on a Masai blanket. It was sandwiches with cheese, luncheon and fresh made guacamole which was really nice. The guys finished packing and their packs were huge and heavy. I felt guilty as all I was carry was some warm clothes, rain gear, first aid kit and water. When I offed to carry some more they just smiled and said “hakuna matata” (‘thats life’ or ‘no worries’ in swahili).
We set off at 1250 (2330 meters above sea level) and stuck together due to risk of elephant and buffalo in the thick jungle. The track was on an old vehicle track which is only used by motorbikes now and the grass is kept short by farmers who cut the grass with machetes and carry on the back of their bikes to feed their animals. It was a trail that Te Araroa Trampers would dream of. Easy climb on nice track sheltered from wind and perfect temperature.
The pace was gentle due to the weights the guys were carrying so I could amble along looking at the forest which changed from jungle like trees to a forest of really big bamboo.
There was elephant dung on the trail but none was fresh and I didn’t see any wildlife. There wasn’t many birds either which is strange after the constant bird noise when walking in New Zealand.
We had one break after 40 minutes and arrived at Giant Bamboo Camp at 1445. Zachary and I put up my tent which is a double so very roomy width wise for me but only just long enough length wise. I would not want to be a taller person. The tent was a good quality Quechua dome tent but I did not like the lack of vestibule and the entrance is angled for easy access but would mean rain getting into the tent entrance as you entered and exited. I set myself up and 30 minutes later David called me for afternoon tea set up on the blanket beside my tent. I had a couple of hot chocolates and a plate of popcorn.
I then sat in my tent reading on my phone wishing I had brought my Kindle. The altitude is affecting me slightly in a mild headache and weeing a lot.
At 1730 dinner was served by David. First was a freshly made vegetable soup which was delicious. Then for main a huge plate of mashed potatoes with peas through it, spinach and a delicious beef and vegetable dish that had carrots, tomatoes, capsicum and corgettes. Then for desert a plate of fruit with a banana, tamarillo, and two different types of Passion fruit. Then a hot chocolate to finish with. I was very impressed with this dinner.
After dinner I read for a bit then went to sleep at 2000. it was cold enough that I needed to pull my bag over my head.
I woke twice in the night for a wee and when it was time to get up I was busting to go again. Normally I sleep right through but this is the affect of altitude getting rid of fluids from the body.
15 March 2015
Day 2 – Giant Bamboo Camp (2645m) to Highland Camp (3540 m). 895 m gain. 0830- 1240 (4 hours 10 minutes).
I had a restless night with having to get up for the toilet and still adjusting to the new time zone. Also there were some very loud birds making some very strange sounds.
At 0700 I started packing up and headed into the bush to dig a hole for my morning business. Luckily I didn’t think about the chance of snakes in the thick bush until I finished as I may have had trouble going. Also glad I didn’t see any as I wouldn’t want to run away with my pants down.
I finished packing and breakfast was served. It was a hot drink, plate of fruit, toast, omelette, sausage and 8 pancakes. Definitely filling and delicious. If the standard and size of meals continues I am going to put on weight during this week.
We left at 0830 and walked up through the bamboo forest. The track was now on single track but still clear apart from some bamboo which had fallen down. The gradient was generally gentle with some short steeper bits. I wasn’t out of breath but had a mild headache which went away with one paracetamol. I made sure to keep drinking regularly.
At around 3000 meters we started emerging from the bamboo into thicker vegetation and then into more open scrubby vegetation and tussock. Now I could look back down the mountain and the views were fantastic.
We stopped at a rocky outcrop for lunch. Lunch was a 3 slice luncheon and cheese sandwich, peanut butter and honey sandwich, boiled egg with salt, banana and fruit juice.
Then it was another hour into rocky outcrops and then along the base of some big cliffs to our campsite. The track was rougher now and reminded me of the tracks in the Tararuas in NZ
Heading under the Highland Cliffs
At the campsite the crew set up in a cave and I was a little further around under the cliff looking down the mountain. I settled in and 20 minutes later had afternoon tea of Digestive Biscuits and hot chocolate. As I sipped my drink I watched a large Eagle circling in the valley below. I then snuggled into my sleeping bag as it was getting cold and alternated between reading and looking at the view.
At 1830 David brought dinner. Today was chicken noodle soup to start. Mains was rice, spinach, and a nice chicken and vegetable dish. Desert was passion fruit, orange and Mango, once again nicely presented. As I ate there were some birds becoming active in the cliffs above me. I watched the sunset which was fantastic even with some clouds in the way. I felt like I was back in Africa with that sunset as it is not the same anywhere else. The colours seem bolder and the sun bigger.
I read until the late hour of 2030.
I finished off dinner with a hot chocolate. I used the rest of the water to fill my bottle and used this as a hot water bottle.
16 March 2015
Day 3 – Highland Camp (3540) to Shipton Camp (4200). 660 m gain. 0830 – 1330 (5 hours).
Last night I only needed to get up once which was nice. I was already awake as when I moved my hot water bottle the lid came loose and some water spilled. Luckily my sleeping bag was open and spread over me so only my sleeping bag liner got a little wet. I wrung it out and hung it up over my pack and to my surprise it was dry when I got up. When I went back to sleep I was cold as I didn’t have my liner so I put a top and a hat on and zipped the bag up and was toasty again.
I was woken up at 0700 and packed up. This meant clothes for the day and first aid kit in my pack and everything else in Zachary’s pack. Zachary then took the tent down but I could not handle not helping so joined him. It is so strange after all my time on the Te Araroa trail doing everything myself to now having 3 guys dedicated to looking after me. It feels a little colonial walking along but they all seem to enjoy what they do and it is nice to be a little pampered. I am sure once I get at higher altitude it will be enough to carry my small pack and I will be grateful not to have to do anything but walk.
Breakfast this morning was a plate of fruit (mango, tamarillo, passion fruit and orange), porridge, 2 banana fritters, 2 sausages and 4 french toast with a coffee.
We left at 0830 following a faint track that started to get rocky. We climbed steadily into a ridgeline and then along the ridge. The highest peak of Mt Kenya, Batian Peak, came into view. While I would love to climb it this it is technical climbing and as I have not climbed in 15 years it is not realistic to do so now. I will be climbing Point Lenana the highest non-technical peak at 4985 m.
The vegetation changed to high alpine plants and became very different from what I have seen before. The most interesting plants were the Giant Lobelia and Feather Lobelia.
It was interesting to see that elephants come up to these high altitudes. The last sign I saw was at 3600m.
We joined a more defined track for a while then left it at 4200 where we dropped down into a valley. While the crew are slow going uphill with their big packs they are speedy going down and I was pushing to keep up in the rocky shallow scree slope.
At the bottom we were onto very rocky terrain sidling around the mountain. We started climbing up 100 m then dropped to two lakes where we had lunch. The porter and cook left early while I finished lunch. I suggested to Zachary that he also started walking but he just smiled. I imagine it is not a good look for the guide to be leaving his client alone.
Now was a steep sustained grunt up a rocky slope then deep scree. I was struggling to walk so slow and Zachary said to go ahead so I headed up at a pace that would have seemed very slow on Te Araroa but as I was above 4100 m it was a good steady pace. I overtook everyone and rested at the top which was 4400. We then dropped steeply down a scree slope to Shipton Camp at 4200. I was pleased to be feeling strong still and my head felt good after taking one Panadol after breakfast.
At Shipton Camp I am in one of 3 large bunkrooms which fit 20 people each. I would hate to be there when it was full. The bunkroom which is very crammed with narrow space between the bunks and you have to negotiate your way through the maze to get to the toilet. Lucky I was the only one there. I sewed up the wrist Strap on my walking pole as it was in really bad condition and then had afternoon tea of popcorn, Digestive Biscuits and hot chocolate. An Irish guy turned up at 1430
I went exploring on the rocks nearby as I had seen a rock Hyrax from a distance. I saw 3 different types of birds and a rodent that looked like a oversize fat mouse with a short tail. I then tried another rock outcrop place and found a rock hyrax sitting on a rock. It let me get to within a meter and I watched it eating.
I headed back to the bunkroom and had another Panadol as I had a mild headache and then started reading. Shortly after party of 12 americans turned up with the 7 girls moving into my bunkroom.The temperature plummeted at 1600 so I put on my down jacket and hat.
I went for another walk and saw another rock hyrax. On my way back I chatted with the Irish guy. He was walking further around the mountain tomorrow and summiting the next day as he wanted more acclimatisation. The Americans were summiting tomorrow and then heading back the same way. From their description of the walk up it didn’t sound as interesting or scenic as my route up.
Zachary briefed me on the next day. Due to my speed he would lighten his pack as much as possible and we would leave an hour later than normal at 0400.
Dinner was buttercup soup, pasta, spinich and mince with vegetables and desert passion fruit, tamarillo and pineaple. I went to bed soon after and everyone was in bed by 1930
17 March 2015
Day 4 – Summit Day (4985 meters) – Shipton Hut (4200) to Mintos Tarn (4200) via Point Lenana (4985). 785 meters climb and 785 meters descent. 0400 – 0900 (5 hours).
The american group started getting up at 0200 and were not quiet about it. One of them kindly shook my foot to wake me and I managed to politely say I wasn’t getting up for a while. The first group left at 0230 and the rest at 0300.
I got up at 0320, packed and had a snack of Digestive Biscuits and a coffee. I filled my water bottles with hot water. One went into an insulated pouch I had made out of a closed cell foam mat and the other on my shoulder strap. The temperature was meant to be -5 degrees but it felt warmer so I just wore my normal trousers with gaiters, my normal merino blue top, a 260 weight merino top, light windproof hat, fleece gloves and waterproof outer gloves.
David and Basta would leave at 0600 and take the shortcut to the breakfast location so it was just Zachary and me leaving at 0400. Walking out of the hut I had to pause to take in the immense blanket of stars that covered the whole sky. It was pitch black apart from these stars and the lights of the head torches of the american parties above on the hill.
Zachary kept a slow pace knowing how far we had to climb in the thinning air. I felt strong and was not puffing or feeling any effects of the altitude. The path was steep and slippery with loose gravel. I was able to clearly see the advantage of my walking poles as I watched Zachary constantly slipping. Not only do the poles save energy by the upper body taking some of the load off my legs but they let me walk more upright keeping traction on my full foot. Zachary was leaning forwards which meant his traction was only on the balls on his feet hence him slipping more.
As the pace was easy I was able to look around, mainly at the stars but also at the torch lights ahead and as we gained height I could see the lights of the towns below. The only sound was the crunch of the frosty dirt (like walking on snow) and the loose gravel. After an hour the tinkle of ice in my water bottle joined in.
I felt warm except for my left thumb and middle finger until we reached the saddle and a cold wind appeared which caused more of my fingers to get cold. The bonus now was a beautiful cresent moon to add to the impressive sky scenery.
Zachary dropped his pack here and we sped up a little. 5 minutes later we passed the first group and rapidly caught the second group 10 minutes later meaning we would now be the first to summit. Near the top I stopped to put on my ZPacks Rain jacket and pants to block the wind and my big down jacket for some extra warmth as I would be sitting around. Now the track got really steep and it was a scramble up rocks for another 10 minutes. Just below was a small Glacier which I was surprised to see. Near the top some wire topes appeared. Their placement was strange and they were more a hindrence than help as I had to step over them. At some metal rungs bolted to the rocks I left my poles and climbed up this ladder to the summit. It took 2 hours.
It was a fantastic feeling to have made it. The sky was just starting to change colour and I had the top to myself for 10 minutes. I watched the sky light up in orange and red reflecting off the fluffy clouds below. In the distance I could see Mt Kilimanjaro where I was heading next. As the sun came up Zachary took summit photos of me and I recorded the sun coming up. The last of the Americans arrived at 0700 having missed the sunrise but still happy to have made it. Zachary was great never showing any impatience to be leaving and seemed to be enjoying the views as much as I was.
We left at 0715. I stopped to photograph the glacier and the route down. We could see our breakfast destination well down the mountain and made good time back to the saddle where I stripped off back to just merino tops as with the sun up it was rapidly warming up though my water did not melt for another two hours.
We headed down the opposite way we had come up, now on the Chogoria Route, and dropped rapidly to a valley which led to a tarn. Zachary gave me a choice to camp at the tarn (4200 meters) or keep going another 2 hours to another campsite at 3200 meters. As the tarn was so beautiful and I wanted to keep the altitude acclimatisation in preparation for Mt Kilimanjaro I opted to stay at the tarn.We headed down the opposite way we had come up, now on the Chogoria
We walked around the corner where there was a hut and toilet. There David served breakfast of cornflakes, fruit plate (tamarillo, passion fruit, banana, orange and pineapple) omelette, sausages and toast. I then walked back to the tarn where Zachary and Basta were putting up my tent. The time was then spent admiring the view and reading.
At 1200 David gave me lunch which was chicken and chips with coleslaw and a Ribina drink. I then settled back for an hour when Zachary took me for a walk to see some more tarns, Gorges Valley and Lake Michaelson.
The rest of the afternoon was alternating between reading and watching the scenery. The mist was starting to come and go and was quite thick at times blocking the view of everything. The temperature also started to drop with the sun covered. A family came up the hill but they decided to stay in the little hut so I remained uninterrupted by the tarn.
Dinner was a butternut soup, pasta shells and a vegetable dish with the fruit plate and hot chocolate to finish. I then walked to one of the rock outcrops to see if the sky would turn red at sunset. The highest peaks were silhouetted against the sky and the clouds faintly turned orange but not as much as I was expecting. It was good to watch the mist coming up the Gorges Valley and creeping up the valleys to the high peaks.
The rest of the evening was snuggled into my sleeping bag reading. I went to sleep at 2030 and had my top and a hat on, a hot water bottle and my heavy down jacket over top of my sleeping bag. This kept the temperature bearable but was not warm.
18 March 2015
Day 5 . Mintos Tarn (4200) to Meru Mt Kenya Lodge (3000). 1200 meters descent. 0900 – 1130 (2 hours 30).
I had to get up once during the night and the mist had cleared revealing the impressive stars again. I was cold when I got back in my sleeping bag but once I had cinched everything tight and added an extra hat and jacket I got back to sleep.
Today was a late start so I was up at 0800. Breakfast was Porridge, Sausages, Omelet, Pancakes and fruit plate. We left at 0850 with just Zachary and I while the others finished packing. The route was well defined but rocky path through volcanic terrain. The Gorges Valley was below to the right and at one point we could look at where it dropped off steeply with a waterfall coming down the steep face. The vegetation was sparce and still alpine and I could see how big the mountain plateau is. We continued dropping and entered some scrub which was hip heigh.
Now we were on a dirt road for another 7 km to the Mt Kenya Lodge. At the Lodge we had one chalet to ourselves. There was a lounge area with a fire, a kitchen and a room with 3 beds and a bathroom. The guys lit the fire for the water heater and I had lunch while waiting. Lunch was baked beans which had been jazzed up to taste really good with onions, courgette and some other things. This was served with noodles.There was a couple being guided up by Jerimiah who had escorted me from Nairobi. They had a guide and 4 other people. David and Basta caught up shortly after and we continued to the camp that was an option for me yesterday. It was pretty uninspiring tucked in the scrub and limited views so I was glad I opted to stay by the tarn yesterday.
Once the water was heated I had a shower and washed my clothes, putting them outside to dry but keeping an eye on them as Zachary had mentioned monkeys around. The guys disappeared to their accommodation elsewhere in the camp and I relaxed reading.
At 1500 David served afternoon tea of popcorn and digestive biscuits with hot chocolate.
At 1800 was dinner of Buttercup Soup, a vegetable stew with chipati bread and a fruit platter. The camp caretaker lit the fire and lamp. As Zachary was explaining the plan for tomorrow it started to rain quite heavy and I was glad I was not in my tent anymore. The guys left and I spent the evening curled up in the comfy chair reading.
I went to bed and discovered that the bed was really narrow and I had to be careful not to fall out. There were sheets and blankets but it was cold so I stayed fully dressed and had a hat on and my hot water bottle.
19 March 2015
Day 6 – Meru Mt Kenya Lodge (3000) to Nairobi.
I was up at 0630 and this time packed all of my stuff into my own pack. After another huge breakfast we left at 0730 and walked 20 minutes down the road to where the LandCruiser was waiting. The weather had completely cleared and it was warm and sunny. On the way there were Hyena tracks quite fresh on the road.
We were in the Landcruiser for nearly an hour driving down a dirt road which was in much better condition than I was expecting. For much of the descent the vehicle engine was off and we just coasted down.
Interesting Paint Job
Once in the town of Chogoria I said goodbye to the crew and Alex drove me back to Nairobi taking 3 ½hours.
I had lunch then relaxed for the rest of the day.
Overall this was a fantastic experience. I was very impressed with the company I used (Go to Mt Kenya)and would strongly recommend them, especially after I experienced the difference in Mt Kilimanjaro with a big tour company who were no where near as good in every regard.
To find out more about Go To Mt Kenya, and to book your own adventure go to their website – Go To Mt Kenya
Visits: 1922
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