Day 18 – 7 Jul, Kautokeino to foot of Cunicearru

(25 km, total 406.5 381.5 km, 6h 50 , 1100 to 1750)

I slept really well, probably the best sleep since my arrival in Norway. I started packing but could not finish as one top was still a little damp. I cranked the heater to max and put the shirt in front then went to the reception social area to keep updating my blogs and upload the videos I got finished. As this was such a social couple of days I did not manage to finish uploading the blogs.

Finally my shirt was dry enough too pack away and I was quickly ready to leave. As I handed the key in the lady at reception asked to take my photo to add to their faceboook page with what I was doing. Overall it was a pleasant stay and I would recommend staying at Arctic Motel and Camping.

I walked the 800m to the supermarket and bought tortilla, cheese, spread and salami for lunches and a couple of pottles of berry flavoured breakfast stuff. It doesn’t taste like yoghurt but is white and it may even have rice in it. I have discovered it and love it for breakfasts. I sat in the small seating area and also had a free coffee.

Now my stomach nicely full, and my pack not so nicely full, I headed back into town and picked up the trail where I left it. It was raining lightly on and off. A couple of turns and I was through town and on a country road for a short time before turning off onto a 4WD track below the power line.

I followed this for around 600m and this then joined a gravel road up to a large building. This was some sort of Sami experience area. Off to the side and behind the big building were traditional Sami huts and other structures. I dog was barking and came running towards me but backed off when I raised my sticks. I could not see the route and walked behind the large building looking. An old Sami man appeared and he showed me the way. He explained this was the old route and the new route started down the road, which I had shortcutted across on the 4WD track. There was an old reindeer walking around as well which the man said was the house reindeer and friendly.

My sun burn blister that got rippped open when I fell several days ago

I now walked past the big building towards a house and just short of the house turned left and found the track. There were branches across the swampy bit and then onto a beautiful single track that was well marked.

The track was so clear I did not have to concentrate at all and it was beautiful walking on the flowing track. It was really warm so the raincoat came off.

At the first swamp there were cut branches visible under the water but I missed one and ended up in the swamp to my knee, I paid more attention afterwards. Once through the swamp it was back to the lovely track and a few km on it met up with the “new” track.

The track was then slightly wider but otherwise there was no difference.

I could see the hill that looked so impressive on the map with really close contour lines that the track went up. In reality there was only about 20 meters that was steep and the rest was gentle climb. The track went along the hill, past a lake and up slightly before dropping down to the swamp on the other side.

Jonas had said he had been told that the swamps were really bad and hip deep. He had been considering skipping this section and walking on the road, though he changed his mind. In reality the swamp was no different to any I had already crossed in this journey. There was a clear path through the swamps, making the most of any high ground, and it was never more than past my ankles. The delightful hiking track was more than making up for going through a few swamps. I was loving the track.

It started raining enough to put on myrain jacket but 10 minutes later it had stopped and the jacket came off again. Once over the flat ground the track started gently climbing. This part was in the trees and was pretty boggy for quite a while, but once again not bad and it was easy to keep a reasonable speed going.

This part had really bad insect issues. Stopping would mean being instantly swarmed and even walking there was a constant whine in my ear and I was having to brush off my shoulders regularly. Thankfully though I was not bitten anywhere except my shoulders. It was only about 15 minutes where they were really bad and then the trail climbed out of the trees to go the top of Goaskinvarri where there were 360 degree hills.

At the top there were a couple of options to go down, either straight down the side and along the river or down the spur line which was a gentler descent. I went with this option. This was on a vehicle track and I walked in the grassy centre part.

Actually seeing other hikers is a novelty

Top of Goaskinvarri Hill

Coming down from Goatskinvarri Hill

I came to where I was expecting a track to go to the left but there was nothing. There was a track coming in from the right as expected but noting from the left. I decided to just head cross country in the general direction to get to the river. There were a couple of swamps to cross but they were shallow and the river was also easy to cross.

Once across the river I continued climbing slightly and then saw the track I needed. I followed this track uphill for 5 minutes and then came to the track with red markings. However I did not turn here and follow the red markings as this went to a road which was then followed before turning onto a track. Instead I continued heading up the hill on my track.

The track then swung around on the ridgeline and met up with the official track. This way I avoided a road walk and was able to have some great views.
This track was an old vehicle track but hadn’t been used and was nice and soft under foot.
The 400 km mark was celebrated and I made a marker with a fallen tree branch.

Celebrating 400km

At one swamp the water was actually flowing a little so I filtered some water to give me the flexibility to stop wherever I felt like it. There was the same annoying bird as has been common on this trip however the noise this one was making was new. It sounded like a dogs squeaky chew toy while the dog is gnawing away. It was hilarious listening to the bird while picturing a dog.

It started raining and this time the rain seemed like it would stay for a while so I put my raincoat and rainskirt on.
The track started dropping and I left it to cut across to the red marked single trail which I only followed for 5 minutes before finding a nice camp spot.

The rain eased as I put my tent up and the good thing about the rain is that there were no insects.
Dinner was Mexican Chicken which is spicy and comes with nachos. Desert was butterscotch Instant pudding.

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