Day 21 – 10 Jul, Vicinity junction Reisaelva river and Alttainjoki Stream to Cikrjavarri lakes

(29.5 km, total 501.5 km, 10h 15 , 0745 to 1800)

There was condensation inside my tent this morning. It is the first time I have had condensation, though it was pretty light. I wiped the inside of my walls with my towel before continuing with my morning routine.
My makeshift pole fix seems to have held and it came apart nicely.

The trail continued much like yesterday. Alternating between tall ferns, tall grass and the occasional rocky bit to scramble over where the cliffs were close to the river. It was not fast travel as I couldn’t see the track through the vegetation and I was surprised I didn’t trip over. My shoes got wet with the condensation but it was such a warm day it didn’t matter. There was blue sky and just a slight breeze.

I came across a hut which was locked and there was also a shelter, for the boat tourists I think. 0930 was the first boat going up the river and there was a steady stream of one every 30 minutes or so. They were so loud as the sound bounced off the cliffs and I could hear them coming from a long way.

I met a Norwegian Man in his late 60s who has decided to visit every DNT hut in Norway, of which he said there were around 500. He started recently and was heading to the hut I had lunch at yesterday. He mentioned seeing and Australian 1-2 km ahead so it was likely I would catch Brendan today.
I was really enjoying the river walk, despite struggling to see the trail. The river was sparkling in the sun and the steep walls changed from trees to rock. Randomly there would be little bridges over a stream or rocky bit but most of the crossings were easy, even without the assistance.

Trail decorations

Nature making my stick pretty

Just after 1000 I came to a nice campsite and saw Brendan at the picnic table cooking his breakfast. It was nice to catch up with him and find out a bit about his story. He was a nice guy, easy to talk too. He quit working a few years ago and in in 2015 did over 1000km of the trail. I didn’t pick up why he stopped but he fell in love with Norway and this year brought a cabin in the Trondheim area. He decided to doo the trail over two years and is taking it easy. He couldn’t understand how my kit was so light and how far I was walking each day. I spent nearly 30 minutes chatting before continuing on my way.

Brendon, a thru hiker from Australia

From here some of the nice open trail of yesterday made an appearance, in between the fern. It was nice to stretch the legs a bit in the open.

I could see a glimpse of a cabin but the trail veered left around a lake and then it was an old vehicle track and my heart sank. I had been loving the single-track. The trail crossed a creek and headed up a small hill before opening out at a carpark with information board.

The trail now headed down the road for 5minutes and then at a very well marked turnoff back onto single track for another 2.5km.

The turnoff was well marked

I started to hear childrens screams and knew I must be getting close to the information centre. Sure enough I rounded a corner and came out at an open area with toilet, information boards and rubbish bins. This was the put in point for the boats.

I grabbed my rubbish and threw it away in the bin, which was handy asit was starting to smell a little. Then headed up a small hill and saw a signpost for the Nordkalotden going straight and the information centre 250m up a hill.

Just as I was deciding what to do a river guide and family came down the hill. The guide asked where I had come from and where I was going and was impressed. As I was talking to him something took a chunk out of my leg. It felt like they had bitten my whole leg off but as I was being the impressive tough long distance hiker I couldn’t whimper like a puppy at the pain of having lost half my leg so just grunted and swatted my leg with my trekking pole. Once they left I looked down and saw a small raised mark (less than 2mm), not my leg missing like it felt like. That was definitely not a mosquito and as I did not see it I don’t know what to avoid.

I headed up to the information centre which looked like a whole bunch of cabins and some huts with pamphlets. I had hoped being a big place, with a tour bus in the carpark, that there may have been a shop. I saw a young guy and asked and he said no but he could make a coffee. As I have a policy of not saying ‘no’ when offered things I accepted. He then proceeded to make a fire and put some coffee and water in a huge pot and set over the fire. There was so much water it would take ages to boil. I was not keen on staying there forever but he had been nice enough to make the coffee so I decided an extended break would be nice. He disappeared occasionally to deal with the people there and I had lunch while waiting for the coffee to boil. He, Turles, was working there for 3 months over the summer. It is a beautiful spot looking down on the river and the valley I had been walking the last 2 days. Definitely not a bad place to work. He hadn’t done any exploring yet so was interested in the track. I had two cups of coffee and then was on my way again.

Turles starting the fire for the coffee

Me enjoying the coffee

I followed the road down to a junction and turned left, following a big gravel road for just over a km. There was a good signpost directing the trail off the road and onto single track up the hill.

It was a good climb with some steep bits. I was definitely sweating now.

A couple came down the hill and I pulled over to let them down, and me rest. The lady was very pregnant and I was impressed at her fitness. They said I was nearly there and when I laughed asked where I was going. The lady then amended to say ‘In that case you are nearly at the Waterfall”. Sure enough 5 minutes later I arrived at Saraelva Waterfall. It roared through a narrow rock gap at the top and fell for a long way. I took some photos and video and then continued up the hill.

Shortly after was a signpost saying 250m to the top of that falls and I went. I scrambled around on the rocks getting different views. It is hard to believe the little stream becomes that powerful waterfall.

Back on the track it continued to climb. There were a couple of steep bits but overall it was not as steep as I had been expecting from the map which was very close together contours. There several small streams so I was able to keep my water bottles filled up to replace the sweat pouring off me, both from the climb and from the heat. I was happy with my fitness and handled the hills ok. When I got to a flatter bit my puffing stopped very quickly.

Strange little red spider

Once clear of the tree line the views of the surrounding mountains became apparent. They were impressive and I was stopping very often to admire the views or take photos. I am not looking forward to sorting through the photos today as I have taken a lot.

The track was in good condition and I was moving quite fast, despite the continuing climb. I had anticipated a 25km day given the river track and steep hill but now adjusted this estimation to nearly 30km.

The trail continued climbing gradually, passing some lakes and then a final steep 100 vertical meter push was on the ridge line. I thought this was the high point but after dropping down there was one more hill and then the trail sidled along the hill slowly dropping height to some lakes.

Neat rock slide waterfall

A hiker came towards me but had no interest in stopping to talk which is unusual on the trail where usually you exchange a few words about the trail ahead.. He was French which was clear from the two words he said “’ello” and “oui”.
Across the valley the mountains had some snow and there was a neat ravine.

Many more stops and photos later I started the descent to the lakes.

Beside the lake was my 500km mark and I made a bigger than normal marker to celebrate.

Celebraing 500km

I was going to camp by the lakes but it was a bit windy so I continued around the hill to the next lake where it was more sheltered.
I put my tent up and had just about finished unpacking my pack when the mosquitos found me. I jumped inside the tent and stayed zipped up the rest of the night. Tomorrow I cross into Finland and I was considering a detour to climb their highest point, however it is a early 20km round trip and I do not have the luxury of time to I think I will skip it.
As I write this I have counted 8 mosquitos hanging on my door, just waiting to pounce. There is even on hanging on my sock which proves they do not smell the way we do as the sock is very smelly now.

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