Day 47 – 6 Aug, Krukkistua Hut to Bolnastua Hut

(25 km, total 1203 km, 8h 40 m, 0730 to 1610)

I took some Ibuprofen with breakfast and thankfully my foot felt better so I was optimistic as I had breakfast. I packed and took my first tentative steps. While I could feel a little pain it was heaps better and most importantly I was not limping. I now had 20 km to try it out before having to make a decision about seeing a doctor or not.

The trail continued in the trees though there were a lot of swampy bits as well. After a bit it started climbing and after a track junction started dropping again. There were heaps of mushrooms along this bit of trail. There were 3 different types and one of the types produced huge mushrooms, bigger than a standard saucer.

The trail was now not far above the river and continued in the sparse trees and swamps. As I was looking down I noticed a new berry. There had been small black round berries that I didn’t recognise but this new berry I knew. It was a blueberry. They were slightly smaller than in NZ and on a smaller plant but I was pretty sure they were blueberries. I tried one and was happy that it tasted like a blueberry. Now I stopped to pick some berries in the very small patch which were ripe. As I moved on I was now paying more attention looking for more patches which were ripe and there were a couple so I was able to get a small handful of berries at each.

The trail crossed to the other side of the river by a swing bridge and then it was a steep climb up the hill to just above the tree line and then a more gentle climb.

On this patch of ground there were heaps of blueberries and I kept stopping to pick them. At one large patch I took my pack off and found a plastic bag to collect some for later. They were sweet and tart at the same time and tasted really good. I was also happy I was getting a good boost of vitamins.

The track dropped to a stream which had a bridge on it and then climbed back up and there I met a lady and her dog. The dog was barking and carrying on as I climbed up to them but as soon as I was there it was all friendly and slobbering me. She was a local who was heading to Krukkistua Hut for a couple of nights. It seems common for people to take their dogs hiking, some with panniers to carry their own food. Many of the huts had rooms for the dogs, though they were not allowed in most of the bunkrooms.

I continued gradually climbing along the side of the hill and found one more fantastic blueberry patch which I couldn’t resist adding to my bag.
There was a short rocky bit and then the climb was largely open, with alternating patches of swamp or rocks.

Once at the highest point the trail followed along at the same height around the hill and then started dropping very gradually through the swamps and streams.

On my map was marked the Arctic Circle line and I was surprised when I got there that there was no marker. I took a video anyway and continued on another 500m to an emergency shelter and there was a Polar Circle sign. I took a few more photos then went into the hut for lunch.

Crossing the Arctic Circle

Arctic Circle sign by the hut a bit further south of the actual line according to my map

The hut had room for 2 people to sleep, though you could probably squeeze another couple in. There was an inflatable mattress and a foam pad. The only other thing was a table and fireplace. It would be a very comfortable place to spend the night.

From the hut there were a number of stream crossings close together but all dry feet crossings. Then it was a gradual climb alternating between a dirt track and rocks to walk on.

After a couple of km it flattened out and there were heaps of little lakes. Here I celebrated the 1200km mark.

Though it was flat there were little ups and downs and the track was not fast, like all of the trail today. I plodded on a little concerned that I was starting to feel my foot again, the old pain and the new. However it was not making me limp and was not stopping me enjoy the view so it wasn’t a big issue.

After 3km of the same sort of terrain the track started dropping and I could see the dirt road I would be walking later, the main road (E6) and a railway track. There were a number of cabins so I could not identify the DNT one. The track started dropping steeply and after crossing the railway lines and continuing the steep drop I arrived at the hut.

As I had started dropping it had started to rain very lightly but was feeling like it was going to get heavier. The lady I met earlier said the weather was meant to turn nasty in the afternoon.
I had done 25 km and though mentally I wanted to keep going I thought it was sensible to not push it with my foot and decided to stop there for the day. Like yesterday I got a hot drink, some snacks and set up with my foot elevated and read. If I can walk without a limp tomorrow morning I will continue on the trail and it is another 4 days to a road which I can use to get to a big town if needed.

Within 20 minutes of stopping my foot started swelling and was quite sore.

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