Day 18 – 9 Apr 19. Wind, the Never Ending Hill, Exfoliation and Trail Magic

Today 37.2 km (23.1 mi), Total Distance 351.6 km (218.5 mi). 11 hours (0620-1845 less 1.5 hr at trail magic)

Around midnight the wind started and steadily worsened. I was becoming concerned for my tent as it is 5 years old and the gusts were really strong and sudden so I decided too drop my poles to reduce the profile. The wind continued to strengthen and I ended up having to hold the tent down around me to stop it blowing so frantically. Needless to say I got no more sleep.

I could hear the wind roaring over the hill or around the hill and seconds later the blast would hit me, shaking me around for a few minutes. I have been in worse winds in Norway but then I had the self supporting poles which combined with the trekking poles gave the tent a much better strength than just trekking poles. Luckily it wasn’t too cold and I was able to keep my sleeping bag draped over me to maximise the warmth.

I was so happy when it started to get light but now I had the challenge of packing everything. I tried putting my poles up but the wind was too strong. I held the tent down with my foot while putting my sleeping bag and mattress away, both rather rushed. Then I got out of the tent and put my pack on top of it, reaching into the tent to try and find things in the right order to put into my pack. Once I had the main things I stuffed the tent into my pack. I was not going to try to fold it in the wind. I left a few things in the tent and I had to recover my hat and sunglasses. After I found a few small things were also still in there.
I took a moment after finishing this to take in the spectacular sunrise. It was lighting the sky red and the rocks above me.

I started walking at 0620, by far the earliest do far. It wasn’t too cold but I did put my wind jacket on.

I warmed up quickly and found a sheltered spot to sit and redo my shoes and sock after putting Body Glide over the hotspots from yesterday. I also had my breakfast.

Not long after I came to the mile 197 campsite. It was much more sheltered with camp spots in the shrubs. I saw a Hyperlight Pack and assumed it was Duke’s but thought it strange I could not see Duchess’s Pack. I later found out it belonged to Jerry, as in Len and Jerry who I have bumped into a few times. As I came around a corner just below the camp I was presented with a pair of Buttocks. I was being mooned before 0700. Jerry must have assumed that behind his campsite was private, without knowing the road curved around. Amused by this I continued down.

Now was the longest and most tedious descent I have ever done. The switchbacks seemed to cover every inch of the mountain, disappearing in one direction for ages before doubling back. It was made worse because there was clear views down to the desert floor so the destination was nearly always in sight. It just never seemed to get closer.

The one positive is that the gradient was so slight in most places I did not get the usual complaints from down hills. My knees were fine and my legs did not turn to jelly.

The entertainment was the many lizards about, much more variety than I have come across. Some had a red tint, some blue and there was one that looked like a little dinosaur. I also saw two snakes, one while I was filming some video. They were both small with one being olive and one much darker.

I knew 200 miles was coming up so was looking for a marker. There was a small stone marker at the place I was expecting. Much further on was a fancy post with 200 miles on it but it must have been from previous years as was well off this years mark.

Not long after this I caught up to Len and found out it was Jerry, not Duke, who had mooned me this morning. They had taken the Black Mountain Road bypass around the San Jacinto trails.

Not much further on I caught up to a guy in tights, kilt with cargo pockets and a very big Commando style knife. You meet some interesting people on trail.

Not long after this I finally spotted a cactus that had flowered.

I was sure I was getting close to the bottom, and could make out some buildings clearly but then the trail did a 1.5 mile jaunt around the side of the mountain and then back again.

Finally I reached the bottom. The trail came out near a pipeline and a drinking fountain had been put in for hikers. It was a little challenging filling water bottles from it, especially when the wind blew the water away from my bottle. There was a large boulder there with a tiny amount of shade and Duchess and The Duke were there resting.

After getting some water I had a tortilla and nuts for lunch before continuing on. The trail was on a small road for the next mile, then past a little community and back into the desert.

It was largely flat and really windy. There were some new flowers and heaps of caterpillars. Once the trail reached the railway tracks it turned left and now was in a river bed. The wind was even stronger and I was being sandblasted. I guess some people pay good money for exfoliation and I was getting it for free.

Looking back at the sand blowing up the riverbed

Finally the underpass came in sight and it was welcome shelter from the wind. Two of the trail family I camped with earlier were there. They had picked up colds at Warner Springs and rested for the last few days. They were now waiting for their trail family.

At the underpass there was two chilly bins (ice box/coolers) but they were both empty. There was a large tub of oranges so I had two and they were amazing. Thank you to the trail angel that provided them. Duke and Duchess arrived and they were heading to the nearby town of Cabazon so I would not see them for a while.

I put my pack back on and went under the next underpass and a white Ute (pickup truck) was there. The man was watching me and I was not sure if he was a worker or a trail angel. This question was quickly solved when he asked me what was in the coolers and then offered me a cold coke. It was amazing to have something that was 1. Not water and 2. Cold. He then said that Mama Bear was arriving soon with hotdogs. We chatted for a little while. His trail name is DNA and he has been doing trail magic for 14 years. This year will be his last year doing it. Amazing that someone has been doing this for so long. It takes a generous and determined person to achieve this. He also gave me a trail angel buff which will come in handy in the winds.

As we were talking another white Ute arrived and it was Mama Bear. She gave me a hug, despite my smell. She gives all hikers hugs. Duchess, Duke, DNA and myself helped her set up a table, chairs and lots of food on the table. In one Chilly Bin was hot hotdogs and there was mustard, ketchup and something in a jar to put on them. I had a couple, then some chips, homemade banana bread, carrots, an apple and another hot dog, as well as another fizzy drink (soda).

Mama Bear has been doing this for a few years now. Her husband did the PCT and she saw the difference having food, drink and hugs made so decided to do it for other hikers. Once again the unselfish generosity is amazing. She does not accept money but did let me donate to her charity, Hiking for Mental Health.

DNA

Moma Bear

A hiker arrived by car from Cabazon and then Len and Jerry arrived. I decided to move on so after final hugs from Moma Bear and DNA I waddled off with my very full stomach.

Before I left DNA advised that the only sheltered spot for camping was in 8 miles. Not wanting a repeat of last night I decided to push the extra distance, even though it would be a long day.

The trail skirted around the settlement and then headed up, past a wind farm to a saddle. Wolverine had passed me not long out of the underpass, though he did not introduce himself or say more than Hi.I found out his name from someone else later. He quickly disappeared from sight.

About 10 minutes after he passed me, just before starting to climb I saw a rattlesnake. It was crossing the trail in front of me. I was able to stop far enough away that it ignored me as it crossed the trail and went into a bush. I let it settle before continuing on. Nice to get a good sighting, from a bit more distance than my last one.

As I was climbing the saddle Wolverine came into sight as he had taken a break and then I started gaining on him. He reached the top just before me but then was off again as I was taking pictures and was a lot slower on the down hill.

From the saddle I thought it was all descent. I should have looked at the map better as it was a slight descent the around the side of the hill and some climbing as well before finally starting the descent.

I was starting to get tired and was so happy when I finally started dropping.

Wolverine was stopped by the trail about half a mile sort of the final descent and was going to get his tent up as he was worried it would get dark. There was still a lot of wind there so I decided to push on.

The final descent was a tight switchback down a steep hill to the river. I could see people camped in the river gravel and heaps of spots in the grass. There was another tent in the grass. I moved a little past them, but not to the big group and set up my tent.

Just as I finished there were a few spots of rain and 5 minutes later it rained briefly and lightly. It did this a few more times then stopped.

I didn’t bother with dinner, just had some nuts, jerky and lollies (sweets) as I was full from the Trail magic. I started to type my blog but was too tired so just went to sleep.

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