Day 4 – 23 Jun, near Nordkappen Tunnel to End of Kobbefjorden

(19.5 km total 82km, 5 h 55, 1150 – 1745)

It started raining at 0200, much harder rain than the previous nights. It was still raining when I woke in the morning so stayed curled in my sleeping bag staying warm and dozing. I had just started reading when I noticed it had stopped raining so I had an early lunch before packing up.

Leave no trace! This is where my tent was

I was finally on my way just before 1200. One of the advantages of it not getting dark is that there is no rush to get anywhere before dark. That is why I am quite happy with the late starts.

I followed the trail for a couple of minutes when I realised I could not see any trail markers. I knew I had to drop to the stream but had missed the turnoff as it was before the last marker. There was a short steep drop to the stream and no choice to walk through it getting wet feet within 10 minutes of starting – great.

Wet feet first thing in the morning – yuck

Once across it was a steep climb of 160 vertical meters. I had no been effected by my lack of fitness in the last few days but climbing this hill I realised how out of shape I was. I stopped frequently to look at the beautiful scenery (get my breath back). It was pretty neat to be looking back to the fjord and the tunnel entrance.

Once on the ridgeline it was lovely walking. The track dropped just of the top of the ridge and there was an actual trail to follow, though it would disappear in front of me only to be 5 meters off to the side. The trail markers, cairn with red ‘T’, were frequent and easy to follow.

I was really enjoying myself and appreciating how lucky I was to be able to have this adventure. The scenery was huge, open wilderness with massive waterfalls down to the steep valley below and in the distance a lake and steep hills with snow patches. A heard of reindeer took off as soon as they saw me. They have such a strange looking run. I noticed there were a few babies with them as well.

The trail started dropping to the lake and after another stream crossing there was a swampy area but I managed to keep out of the worst of it.

Dropping down to the lake

Then another stream crossing and on to a 4WD track, though this was so muddy it was easier to walk beside it. The track gently climbed up to a saddle and there was another herd of reindeer.

At the saddle was a massive patch of snow with a stream running underneath it.

The track descended down to another lake and there was another herd of reindeer.

I should stop taking photos of every herd but they are still neat to watch. I guess for the locals they are the equivalent of our sheep or cows but they are still a novelty to me.

Dropping down to the swamp by the lake

Going past this lake it was really swampy but thankfully the swampy areas are not muddy or smelly like I expected based on New Zealand swamps. This meant I was not as concerned about keeping out of the swamp, especially as my feet were already wet from the numerous stream crossings.
From the lake the track headed up a different valley climbing gradually to reveal stunning views at the top. At the foot of the hill was Auster-Lafjorden, a little bay in the main fjord with some small cottages. Further away was Vester-Lafjorden and then in the distance Kobbefjorden. Looking to the right was the massive Porsangerfjorden.

The drop down the hill was long and steep and really hard on my knees. I did not realise I had climbed so much to have this big of a descent. I could clearly see the route for the next 6 km. At the bottom I was going to take a quick break but was bitten by a Mosquito so decided to move on. I had been enjoying the lack of biting insects especially last night. There was another big stream crossing then back on a 4WD track up a hill though numerous swamps interspersed with rocky areas.

Once over the track dropped back down to the head of the inlet and I lost the markers. I think they turned right after a swamp and I had stayed with the track down to the inlet, over a stream beside a hut and then back up. I saw on the map where the track should go so I followed the track up the hill until it veered right and I kept going straight over the hill. I could see two lakes that the track was meant to go in between but did not see any markers. I crossed the Reindeer Fence at a strainer post. Most of the other posts were very loose and it was a high fence so I wanted the support. I managed to get over fairly easily and was about to head straight across to the end of the ridge line when I saw the swampy area so I followed the 4WD track beside the fence up the hill onto the ridge line.

There were still no track markers which was strange but I knew where to go so wasn’t concerned.

While walking on the ridge I looked to the left and saw in the distance a track marker. The markers must have gone around the other side of the lake to what is marked on the map and up the far ridge. I climbed back over the fence, not quite so gracefully this time. Though I was at a strainer post the wire was not secured as well and I almost went upside down when the staple gave way and the wire came lose. I gave myself a wedgie with the wire, which is not a pleasant experience, and disentangled myself. I fixed up the fence and walked away happy no one witnessed my misadventure. After a hundred meters I was back following the markers as they descended to Kobbefjorden.

Just short of the water I was taking a break when a person on a quad bike drove up on the other side of the reindeer fence, about 400m away. They stopped and stared at me. I waved and got no reaction. They stayed there for ages before continuing up the track. I am not sure if local etiquette is to go up to them but the lack of reaction to my wave made me reluctant and I quickly put on my wind jacket and carried on. The wind was bitterly cold and I was happy with the performance of the jacket to block most of it.
Now I was following the markers to the end of the fjord. There was no trail for most of it and the markers took me up and down and through swamps. I was not sure of the logic sometimes but faithfully followed.

There was a big hut that the trail veered away from before going back to the shoreline. The amount of rubbish increased and this must be where the tide and wind brings plastic things to die. I had been loving how free of rubbish everywhere has been, even beside the roads, but this area made up for it.

I saw a couple of potential campsites but was put off by the rubbish. Eventually I found a nice sheltered spot next to a little waterfall.

Even though there had been some big climbs and a lot of little ups and downs and jumping from dry patch to dry patch I had made good time and was not tired. My knee flared up a little on the big downhill of the day but then went away. I am happy with how my body is holding up so far. My constant effort to keep the pace easy and not push myself seems to be paying off.
Once the tent was up I filtered some water and prepared dinner. Tonight was Tandoori Chicken and this was the best tasking Freeze dry I have ever had. I wish I had brought more of that flavour but I only have one more meal of this in one of my resupply packages. Desert was chocolate instant pudding with the bonus of chocolate chips. Definitely a great dinner tonight and beautiful views to look at while eating, including a herd of reindeer.

I was surprised when I took my shoes off that my feet were not wrinkly given they had been wet all day. Now I will just read a bit until I am ready to sleep.

Leave a Reply Cancel reply