Day 6 – 25 Jun End of Ruossajavrrit Lake to Olderfjjord & Day 7 – 26 Jun, Olderfjord

(Day 6 26 km total 132.5 km, 6h 30, 0710 –1340)

(Day 7 zero km rest day)

The wind was strong most of the night but thankfully started easing in the early morning. I was awake early so decided too get up. Once I was packed up I searched hard to find a peg that had gone missing in the chaos of trying to get my tent up last night. I was not sure if it had been flicked out of the ground or just sunk into the ground so I searched on hands and knees feeling through the vegetation and then did a wider sweep but no luck.

While I thought there was no chance of success I decided too have a look if my pillow had caught up in some rocks. I walked in the direction the wind blew last night looking at all the rocks and then looked up into the swamp and saw my bright orange pillow. By some chance it had landed in the water and got caught in some longer grass so I plodded through the water to recover it – success! I can live without a pillow but it is a nice luxury.

Feeling happy with myself I headed off following the markers, until I lost them again. Thankfully I could see the river in the distance that I needed to cross so I just headed in that direction. The temperature was actually warm enough that I could take my jacket off.

As I got closer to the river I saw the reindeer fence the track was on and saw a marker. As there was plentiful building materials I built a little 111km marker. On the Te Araroa Trail I took a photo every 100km but yesterday when I passed this mark stopping for a photo was way down on my priority list.

I crossed the river and followed the fence on a 4WD track to another fence junction which I crossed and I could see Stohpojohka Hut in the distance.

As I got closer there was a rubbish pile with some strange formation coming out of it.

In the hut was an entry room with reindeer skins hanging on the wall. The hut was unlocked and I was pleasantly surprised with how nice it was. I would have loved to have stayed here last night but it was too far. There were three beds, all with mattresses, a stove and a couple of tables. One bed had reindeer skins for blankets.

I filled in the hut book, not knowing if this was the tradition in Norway. In New Zealand you make an entry in every hut book, even if you are not staying there so that if something goes wrong search and rescue can narrow down the search area. The Australian guy is now only 5 days ahead of me.

As I left the hut the sun came out for the first time since Honningsvag. For an area with the motto “place of the midnight sun”, I have not seen much sun! I got so excited I got my sunglasses out and put on sunscreen. By the time I had finished this the sun had been covered again.
The trail was now following a well developed 4WD trail heading constantly uphill.

The vistas were wide open with hills in the far distance and lakes everywhere. The swamps were ever present seldom going more than 500 meters between them until after a steeper section then I managed a new record of a km between swamps. It was a lovely temperature with just a mild wind.
The trail dropped steeply then undulated, constantly passing lakes.

Super clear water in old wheel rut

At one point I saw the sun again and in my excitement swapped my cap for my wide brim sunhat and that protected me for a couple of minutes before the sun disappeared again.

Just after going between two large lakes there was another steep climb up a rocky hill and I nearly got a sweat on. I usually start to sweat at the hint of movement so it is an indication of how cold it has been that I haven’t been sweating at all.

Coming down from this hill there were some pallets providing a crossing point at one swamp – if only they were always there.

There are several similarities between hiking in New Zealand and Norway. One is the directness of the trail up steep hills with no zig zag/switchbacks and the other is constant wet feet. Thankfully my merino socks were doing a great job at keeping my feet comfortable.

After one more uphill there was a long descent through an actual forest, of dwarf trees (being generous to call them trees and not shrubs)) down to the road. There was a lovely smell going through the trees and while the track was very rocky, and my knee was severally complaining, I enjoyed it.

Hidden in the trees just short of the road were some E1 marker signs.
At the road I turned left and walked for 50 meters to a power transmission station and then down a dirt road.

The road climbed gently, passing houses/cabins on the way to a river. I crossed the river but could see where there used too be a substantial bridge, a long time ago. There was no marker showing where to go over the other side of the river but was a trail leading under a ‘Private’ sign. I followed the trail and there were red marks on the trees and back onto a good 4WD track.

This track was a tunnel with bright green grass on the sides and middle and trees either side. The green seemed so vivid after the more muted browns and greens I had been seeing.

Just after a stream crossing I saw two hikers coming towards me with huge packs towering over their heads and wearing full wet weather jackets and pants which made me hot just looking at them. They were Germans who were walking the E1 for two weeks from Kautokeino to Nordkapp. They picked up that I was from New Zealand from the Kathmandu brand top I was wearing and I saw one of them had a Kathmandu sleeping bag poking out of their pack. They had both visited NZ, as it seems most of Germany has. It was nice talking about the trail. I was the third person they had seen in 10 days hiking. The mosquitos zeroed on us so we went our separate ways.

I then continued climbing gently up the track until I could see traffic in the distance and came out at a sealed picnic area and the E6 Road. I was happy to be finished as I was starting too feel tired now.

There was not a lot of traffic on the road and I was beginning to lose hope of getting a ride when a young man pulled over and rearranged his gear to take me the 9km into Olderfjord. Rather than leaving me at the junction he took me all the way to my accommodation which was well appreciated.

I checked in to my cabin, had a fantastic 6 minute (for 10 Kr/NZD 2) shower. I was impressed at the heated floor in the bathroom and my cabin was like a sauna. I then went straight to the restaurant and had a huge and delicious hamburger and perfectly cooked chips. I had been fantasising about a hamburger and was happy they had one.

I then heaved my bloated stomach back too my cabin to grab my washing and got that going. While waiting I walked 200 meters to the petrol station/grocery store/post office to pick up some snacks and my resupply parcel. Then back to pick up washing and retired to my cabin to start sorting through my videos and photos.

Food for the next 8 days, less lunch

The mess of a thru hiker on a zero day

At 1930 I was back at the restaurant for dinner. I had sautéed Reindeer with mashed potatoes and lindenberries. The meat was a strange texture, almost dried but it was nice with the berries. The waitress was from Finland but gave very good and friendly service. She had worked in Wellington for 6 months. My right knee seize up at dinner and I hobbled back to my cabin. The knee was swollen so I elevated it while continuing to sort though photos. I enjoyed being able to stretch out in bed and not worry about staying on the mattress.

Day 7 – 26 Jun, Olderfjord Hotel Russenes Camping (zero km rest day)
Today was focused on eating, resting and updating my blog. Very enjoyable day.

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