Day 23 – 12 Jul, Meekonjavri Hut to Kilpisjarven

(30.5 km, total 569.5 km, 7h 45, 0715 to 1430, 1700-1730)

I woke up early and was ready to go quickly. Jan was also ready and we started walking together. We set a brisk pace and I thought he would take off as he was faster than me but instead he walked off trail beside me as we talked and this slowed him down enough that we were going the same pace.
The miles flew by without much effort. The trail was less rocky and the hills were pretty gentle. There were still scenes of the mountains in the distance but the terrain closer was more gentle, though there were still lakes regularly.

The hiker traffic seemed to be increasing. In general the Finnish hikers do not stop to talk, just a quick “Hei” as they pass.
After 10km we reached Kuonjarjoki Hut which as well as the usual amenities also had a Sauna.

Sauna

I found it strange that there were three tents in the vicinity of the hut but the closest was 200m and the furthest was 500m, all out of sight from each other. The Finns seem to value their privacy. We signed in the hut book and were off.

The next hut, Saarjavri Hut was only 9km away with a quick uphill and then longer descent down to the lake with the hut beside. It was a pretty location and the hut was just as nice as the others. Here we took a longer break to eat some snacks.

Shortly after the hut a Reindeer walked around the small hill in front,passing within 30 meters of us and continued off around a small bay in the lake and over a hill. It kept the same fast pace the whole way and seemed to ignore us.

The next part of the route crossed back into Norway for a couple of kmthen back into Finland. Shortly after crossing into Norway I had my 4th fall of the trip, twice as many as for the entire Te Araroa. This time the landing was soft – into mud! I misjudged a rock and slipped off it falling forward into a nice mud puddle, thankfully there was some water nearby to wash off.

I don’t know what it says but it is the Border Marker

This is the other side of the sign

There was now a short climb and there were boardwalks over the swampy section up the hill.

Finns seem to carry lare packs but this took the prize

From the top it was downhill all the way to the end of the track, over a bridge, up and over a short hill to a lake and then onto a gravel road down to the main road.

We both had pizza on our mind and head to the information centre to find out were the best places to eat were, and for Jan to enquire about accommodation.

Up to the information centre

The first place we went to eat was not open yet but there was a restaurant just across the road and they didn’t have pizza but they did have burgers. They also had free water and cordial. The burger was fantastic and the chips well cooked. We both inhaled the burgers. I was pleasantly full but Jan said he could probably eat another one. Next was to the supermarket a few hundred meters up the road. It was a big supermarket with excellent range and much cheaper than Norway. I stocked up with lunch and snacks for the next 6 day leg and some snacks for my rest day tomorrow. It started raining and Jan left to set his tent up.

It was nice to walk with someone. Jan was very easy going and the conversation flowed continuously all day. We didn’t talk about pace but though we went fast – really fast when I look at the time vs distance – it did not feel rushed and I still had energy to go further. Unfortunately Jan was continuing on tomorrow and with his pace I will not see him again. I hope the rest of his hike goes well.

Once I had finished shopping I went to the cafe next door for some coffee and to wait for the rain to stop. I shoved my shopping into my pack and hung a plastic bag of the strap with the remainder.

At 1700 I left intending to go a few km so I only had a very short walk tomorrow. I did not want to check in today as I would not be getting full benefit of having a room so I would be tenting tonight.
My pack felt heavy and I took a few rests but still covered the few km quickly. The cars continue to impress with how much room they give as they pass.

When I was about a km from my destination I headed right into the trees and found a nice spot. It had stopped raining but the ground was still wet.
The tent was up quickly and I settled in for the night. Dinner was a packet of chips and desert was grapes and lollies. I was asleep by 2200.

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