Day 35 – 24 Jul, Sitashytta Hut to Skuogejavre Lake

(37.5 km, total 897 km, 12h 5m, 0715 to 1920)

Once again I had a restless sleep in a hut but it was worth it for the lovely company last night.
The trail continued on the road for a few hundred meters then onto a vehicle track and finally onto single trail climbing steeply up a trail, past a single reindeer and then a small herd.

Another interesting sign

The hill was steep for around 20 minutes then eased off but continued climbing past a few lakes before finally reaching the top which had a bit of snow.

Now it was a descent into an area crowded with small lakes and a little rocky but not bad.

There was a river crossing and for the first time I decided I did not want wet feet and took my shoes off to cross. It was shallow with rounded rocks but it was so cold it was really hurting my feet and I rushed across to get out of the water. I now realise how much my merino socks insulate my feet on the river crossings.
Now was a small climb and then a big descent to a large lake.

Now it was following along the side of the lake and there was a decent track to follow. It started to rain so I put on my rain jacket only to take it off 5 minutes later when the rain stopped. One thing I was enjoying was the lack of insects and this was to last all day.

At the end of the lake was a bridge over a fast river next to a hut I had not noticed on my map. I then followed down the valley.

I could smell reindeer and was looking around for them but then noticed how cut up the ground was from a large number of reindeer so figured they had been herded this way within the last few days and it was their urine I could smell. Anytime Reindeer are disturbed they urinate.

The trail turned right and started to climb what I thought would be a small hill but actually took a while to get up.

At the top was an amazing view of a large lake ahead and mountains behind, including a glacier on one. I could see nearer the end of the lake a land bridge crossing which I knew the trail took but it looked to have a gap in it which had me a bit worried.

It was a steep descent and then following the edge of the lake around the right. I could see the hut but it took ages to get there and there was another river to cross. I still didn’t want wet feet so I walked upstream looking for a crossing point but couldn’t find one so once again I took my shoes off and suffered the burn of the cold water.

From there it was another 10 minutes to the hut where I had lunch. There were lots of entries in the hut book talking about the boats, mainly where the second boat was and frequently having to swim to get the boat as they were both on the other side. I wasn’t a hundred percent but was starting to think I was right in that the land bridge had a water gap which had too be crossed by the boat. Now my fingers were crossed that there was a boat on my side as I knew how cold that water was and did not feel like swimming in it.

Leaving the hut the trail headed around a small bay of the lake and climbed up to the ridge of the land bridge. As I dropped down to the gap I was very relieved to see a row boat on my side, though I was a little worried about a row boat. I am very comfortable in a kayak and competent on a canoe but have never had to row.
I put my pack and poles in the front, untied the boat and pushed off. Step one complete I was in the boat without falling. Now I saw my oars were different sizes which does not help in an even stroke. I managed a couple of strokes before twisting and had to correct. This continued as I crabbed my way across the 20m gap. There was a slight current going through the gap and I was really glad I did not have to swim. It took a while but I made it across and dragged the boat onto the rocks and tied it off, really securely. I felt bad for the next person but was not willing to risk another two crossings, with one towing another boat. I just hoped there was a hiker coming today that would take one boat back across.

Safely across despite my terrible rowing

Now it was a slight climb over a saddle, past a really pretty little lake and down to a bridge. I kept looking to my right at the impressive glacier perched on the edge of the mountain, looking ready to fall into the lake.
The bridge was what a Real Estate Agent would describe as ‘character’ and an ‘opportunity’. In a bridge this means a little scary on how strong and stable the bridge actually is.

Looking up at the glacier

The glacier

Looking back at the land bridge

Safely back on the mainland it was now following markers along the side of the lake and I lost the markers pretty quickly. I made my own way as it was pretty clear where to go, at the end of the lake turn right and follow the next lake to the end then a slight climb over a small ridge and down to another lake which I was to follow to the end. I alternated between walking down by the lake and climbing higher to avoid swamps. At one stage I had a great run of reindeer tracks easing the way. Eventually I saw a marker, Swedish style so I had crossed another border.

At the end of the lake was a climb which gave nice views back at the lake. Then a drop to where there was a bridge marked on my map but there was a river with no views. Now it was wet feet time as I knew there were several rivers to cross.

I was now going along the left of a lake, though the trail climbed high over a saddle before dropping down at a point between two lakes.

I was starting to feel tired so found a nice spot to set up my tent looking over the new lake.
Just after I had the tent set up and was tucked inside it started raining and rained continuously for most of the night. Good timing!

Toenail bruised on day one finally came off

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