Day 78 – 08 Jun 19. False Promise of Dirt and a Huge Waterfall

Today 25.6 km (15.9 mi), Total Distance 1534.3 km (953.4 mi) 10 hours 20 minutes (0750-1805)

I was surprised to wake up to ice on my tent. It had been around 8 degrees when I went to sleep and I assumed it would not get too cold. Luckily I had my filter in my sleeping bag as that is my habit but unfortunately my socks were frozen stiff, as were my shoes. It was 1 degree but felt a lot warmer.

I had a new type of breakfast today, muslea (granola) with cranberries ad a sachet of hot chocolate mix added. It was really nice.

After packing up I gave my tent a good shake and a lot of the ice fell onto the floor so I could sweep it up but most stayed on the tent. I rolled the tent up and it was much bigger than normal. I would need to find a nice sunny place to dry it at lunch time.

As I left I could see the sun was about half way down the mountain. I think I had been delaying getting up this morning hoping the sun would melt the ice on my tent.

The trail continued much as before, patches of dirt, patches of water and patches of snow. It was frustrating and tedious and I was not making good time. There were a few longer bits clear of snow, almost 100 meters but then back again. There were several stream crossings, some wit bridges and some I had to wade through. There were also lots of junctions which kept things interesting.

The trail turned away from the Lydell River and headed up a small hill and down to a new river which thankfully had a bridge to cross as it was flowing fast. Across the river was civilisation. There was a path leading up to a road.

I continued on the trail and it was actually pretty good with only a few snow patches. It then came to a meadow and I could see cabins to my right by the road and the ranger station. I also spied a rubbish bin so I headed over and got rid of my rubbish. It was a special bear proof bin.

Now the trail widened and was gravelled which made for lovely walking until it crossed the 120 highway. Normally PCT hikers turn left here and head the short distance to the Tuolumne General Store for a hot meal and to pick up a resupply. Unfortunately for me the store is still closed due to snow.

Across the road was a carpark with toilets, information board and a great view of Lembert Dome, a massive hill of pure rock. There was a trail leading off from the carpark that the information sign map said was PCT. I started to take it then decided to double check my map and I did not have to go up this snow covered track. Instead I was to take the gravel road nearly a mile to Soda Springs.

There were information boards all along the road and also large patches of water which I tried to avoid, and a ford which I just splashed through.

At an intersection I headed right and shortly after was a log cabin, minus the roof, which was protecting Soda Springs. This was where carbonated mineral water bubbles up and people drink it. I passed on drinking it. Outside the cabin were several other little bubbling pools. Nearby was Parsons Memorial Lodge but it was locked as expected.

Now I was back on trail. The trail started clear of snow and I got my hopes up only to be dashed a few hundred meters. I thought because it was rocky and on the other side of the river it may be clear. Instead I alternated between tiny fractions of dirt between snow, rock slabs, solid snow and the very rare 20 or so meters of track. It was as frustrating as yesterday and slow going.

I really enjoyed the big rock slabs as they were free of snow. Initially there wasn’t much of a view but later on the views became amazing. Massive Rock Hills, big river sometimes slow ad sometimes fast and steep pointy mountains across the valley.

I found a nice spot for lunch by a big rock slab. I set my thawed but sodden tent out to dry, took off my shoes and socks and ate my lunch, looking at the big slow river in front of me. It took a bit longer than normal to dry my tent because of how wet it was.

Back on the trail and it continued the same, though there were more large rock slabs to cross. I crossed the Tuolumne river on the two part bridge that had a major issue, it was too short and I had to wade the last part to get to the bank.

I was worried that the snow would be worse on this side but I think it was actually a little better. The track went away from the river, towards the river away from the river, towards the river a few times going around rocks and getting down. The steep bits were stairs, some of which were actually clear of snow.

After a little bit I could start to hear the roar of the waterfall. The trail dropped down steeply and I threaded through some trees, rather than the steep snow. Then there were some clear stairs and I could see the upper part of the waterfall.

It was massive with a huge volume of water thundering over the cliff. I could feel the water droplets from the falls. I continued down the stairs and came to the bottom of the falls. There was a large area of flat rock and at the edge of this was a view of the entire falls. Very impressive. I stopped and took a break there so I could enjoy the falls for a while.
Finally I moved on and did the last short section before crossing over the river on another two stage bridge that was also too short and I had to wade the last bit.

Now I was heading uphill up a valley beside a river. It started like normal with a mix of snow and dirt and then it started climbing and it was dirt free for nearly 15 minutes. I was loving it, despite the climbing which was steep in places. There were neat views of huge rock mountains all around.
Unfortunately at the top of the steep bit the snow started again. Within 30 meters of starting in the snow I posthole badly. I thought I had twisted my knee but thankfully it was ok. It was my own fault, I had missed the very top of a log and stepped too close to it. Now I was going to pay more attention.

The rest of the climb was majority snow with a few tiny appearances of the trail. It was tedious trying to stay on the trail so I gave up and did big feature navigation; big hill to left, river to right, keep between.

This was more relaxing and I was just concentrating on trying to minimise the ups and downs of the snow mounds. After what seemed like a long time there was a sort downhill to a river and then I was in a wide open valley.

Once again my navigation was to keep between the hill and the river. There were no footprints, like much of the day. I think they all melted away. The first part in the valley had cleared patches near the trail but then it was crossing some water and onto the solid snow.

I felt like I was making good time across the snow, despite the sun cups. Sun cups are little hollows that form in the snow which make for awkward walking. When the snow is icy it is very difficult and potentially dangerous ankle twisting. When the snow is a little softer it is not as bad and I was lucky to have good snow, just soft enough to take the worst off the sun cups but still firm enough to have traction.

The trail went into the trees but still following the river. Occasionally I would catch a glimpse of the trail and occasionally I would see some faint footprints but largely I just made my own way.

The trail crossed to the other side of the valley and I started looking for a campsite. My perfect site would be flat, clear of snow and in the sun and I actually found this.

I set up my tent and laid my shoes, socks and innersoles out in the sun.

Then dinner, reading and eating snacks and bed. It is 10 degrees at 2000 hours but I am going to assume it will be freezing overnight and bring in my socks.

Visits: 393